An LED machine vision light that runs hot does not fail loudly. It drifts: output sags a few percent, a white light shifts color, and partway through the shift the protection circuit cuts in and the inspection stops. If you specify lighting for multi-shift or 24/7 lines, thermal management is a design input, not an afterthought. This guide gives you the numbers: how heat moves out of an LED light, the duty-cycle arithmetic that keeps a high-output light cool, a worked line scan example, the mounting details that decide whether cooling works, and the decision for each duty case.
Where the heat comes from, and where it has to go
An LED converts roughly 20-30% of its electrical input into light. The other 70-80% becomes heat inside the die and the board behind it. That heat has one route out: die to board, board to housing, housing to air or to whatever metal the light touches. Design the whole chain and the light stays stable; leave an air gap anywhere in it and the junction cooks. Compact modern lights pack more LEDs into less housing, so the chain matters more every year.
LED junctions survive 125-150 °C in the absolute, but output and lifetime degrade far earlier, so the target is a junction under about 100 °C at your worst ambient. The materials in the chain decide how easy that is:
| Layer in the heat path | Typical conductivity |
|---|---|
| Aluminum housing (6xxx alloy) | 170-200 W/m·K |
| Mild steel frame | about 50 W/m·K |
| Stainless steel housing | about 15 W/m·K |
| Thermal paste or thermal adhesive | 1-8 W/m·K |
| Still air gap | 0.026 W/m·K |
Aluminum moves heat an order of magnitude better than stainless, and a film of thermal paste beats the air gap it replaces by two orders of magnitude. Bolt the light metal-to-metal onto a conductive frame and your machine becomes its heat sink. Hang it on painted standoffs and it can only cool through its own surface into still air. The same junction-to-driver logic inside any LED lamp is spelled out further in this junction temperature and driver design reference.
What overheating costs you
Four things happen, in order. Output droops: light output falls as junction temperature climbs, and the phosphor in a white LED shifts its spectrum at the same time, so a warm light no longer matches the setup you tuned it at. Lifetime collapses: the working rule of thumb, from Arrhenius-style wear-out, is that every extra 10 °C of junction temperature roughly halves LED life — the core of why strobe mode extends L70 lifetime. Drive creeps: a die's forward voltage falls about 2 mV per °C, so a constant-voltage supply feeds a warm light more current, which makes it hotter still; the constant-current versus constant-voltage comparison shows why current drive breaks that loop. And protection trips: many lights carry a thermal cut-out that latches somewhere in the 60-80 °C housing range, taking the light down mid-shift instead of letting it fail quietly.
Heat near the camera hurts too, because sensor noise climbs with temperature. The same mounting checks apply on that side of the lens, as the camera overheating checks walk through.
The biggest lever: duty cycle, not bigger heat sinks
Housing temperature follows average electrical power, not peak brightness, and average power is yours to set:
A light pulsed for 100 µs at 1,000 shots per second is on one tenth of every second: whatever its peak draw, the housing sees one tenth of it as heat. The die reaches thermal equilibrium in milliseconds and the housing in minutes, so short pulses barely warm the die between shots — the housing simply settles where average power puts it.
That is why strobing and overdrive belong together. Most strobe-rated lights allow pulse currents above their continuous rating, but only at low duty: treat around 5% duty as the region where 2× and more is commonly specified, and take the allowed factor from the light's own strobe rating. The physics and the safety limits are laid out in pulsed LED overdrive and the overdrive duty-cycle timing guide.
Duty has a ceiling in the timing too: the off-time must cover pulse width, optical rise time and controller recovery, and the same arithmetic caps trigger outputs. The matching math is in the strobe duty-cycle matching guide, with the frame grabber pulse limits covering the signal side.
Worked example: a 108 W line light at 10% duty
Take a wide web inspected at 0.1 mm per pixel, moving at 0.5 m/s. Line rate follows from speed and pixel size: 500 mm/s ÷ 0.1 mm = 5,000 lines/s = 5 kHz. With a 20 µs exposure per line, the light is on 5,000 × 20 µs = 0.1 s in every second: a 10% duty cycle. The line rate calculator runs this step, and setting the line rate covers the camera side.
Run the light constant-on and its full rating becomes heat. The LS-LSC-0527 is a 300 x 17 mm line light source rated 87 W in red and 108 W in white. Taking 75% of the electrical input as heat held in the housing (LED optical efficiency near 25%), constant-on operation dumps 108 W × 0.75 ≈ 81 W into that small aluminum body.
- Size
- 200-400 mm
- Connector
- 16M-6J
Now strobe the same light at twice its continuous current, within its strobe rating and at the duty the exposure allows. Peak input: 108 W × 2 = 216 W. Average: 216 W × 0.10 = 21.6 W. Housing heat: 21.6 W × 0.75 ≈ 16 W. That is about one fifth of the constant-on load, so the housing settles at roughly one fifth of the constant-on temperature rise, while the part sees twice the brightness during each 20 µs pulse. The near-linear scaling holds in the 30-80 °C housing range because convection and radiation both grow with temperature over it.
The controller must source the peak, not the average: it needs 216 W of headroom on this light's channel. The LS-CTL-0264 is a 2-channel high-power digital controller rated 400 W with a 24 V output, above that with margin to spare.
- Channels
- 2 channels
- Control
- Digital
- Feature
- High power
- Output
- Constant voltage 24 V
Mounting: build the conductive path
If the inspection truly needs continuous light, conduction is the tool left, and it is won or lost at the mounting joint.
- Bolt through paint and powder coat to bare metal. Coatings conduct at roughly 0.1-0.5 W/m·K — hundreds of times worse than the aluminum behind them.
- Put thermal paste or a thermally conductive adhesive in the joint. Its 1-8 W/m·K replaces a 0.026 W/m·K air gap.
- Use the full mounting face. Two screws through slim end brackets leave the middle of the housing cooling through air alone.
- Attach to metal that itself sheds heat: a frame leg tied to the machine base works; a plate floating on rubber isolators only delays warm-up.
- Skip magnetic and plastic mounts for high-output lights. They hold position and insulate at the same time — one of the trade-offs covered in this machine light mounting guide.
For compact high-output bars this is the whole game. The LS-BAR-0668 is a 312 x 36 x 26 mm high luminance bar light whose aluminum back face is its heat sink, so clamp the face, not the end caps.
- Size
- 200-400 mm
- Type
- Standard
- Voltage
- 24 V
Fans: when forced air earns its keep
Some heat only forced air moves: high-output line lights running at or near continuous duty in a warm plant. The watts add up quickly at line speed, as the line scan power sizing guide works through. Where the same family exists fan-cooled and natural, the split marks the practical boundary: the LS-LSC-0441 is a 493 x 60 mm oblique line light cooled by natural convection, while the LS-LSC-0074 is a 484 mm fan-cooled high uniformity line scan light.
- Size
- 400 mm +
- Voltage
- 24 V
- Size
- 400 mm +
- Voltage
- 24 V
Take the fan when the light sits near its continuous rating with ambient above about 30 °C, or when you need full output without the strobe option. Keep natural cooling wherever dust, spray or long service intervals argue against moving parts: fans pull dust into their fins, they fail silently, and they have no place where washdown reaches them. Inside a sealed cabinet a fan only stirs the air — the cabinet itself has to exchange or shed the heat.
Controllers: size for peak, drive with current
The controller is half the thermal design. Size its channel for the peak pulse power, not the average — the 216 W channel in the worked example above — and prefer constant-current output so a warm light cannot pull extra current as its forward voltage falls. In multi-light stations, a strobe-capable digital box that sequences the channels lowers total heat too, because only one high-output light is on per cycle.
The LS-CTL-0070 is a 4-channel digital control box rated 200 W with RS232, and its strobe support makes it the sort of part that gates four lights through one inspection cycle.
- Output
- Constant voltage 24 V
- Channels
- 4 channels
- Control
- Digital
- Feature
- Strobe
Match output type to the job: constant-current suits strobing and holds brightness steady; constant-voltage boxes are fine at low duty where any drift has time to be trimmed out. The controller benefits guide covers what the box does beyond switching, the shop's light controllers are filtered by channels, output and strobe support, and the light controller finder searches the full range.
When the usual answer is wrong
Continuous light that the inspection does not need is the most common mistake: a constant-on light sized for peak brightness carries its full rating as heat all shift. Dim it to the minimum that passes contrast — a bar light at a quarter output in a 22 °C cell may need nothing else. Mass without a path is the second: a thick plate on rubber isolators slows warm-up without moving heat anywhere. Overdrive past the light's strobe rating is the third: pulses then sag and uniformity drifts, the signature the current droop diagnosis walks through. And fans in wet or dusty zones buy failures: sealed natural-convection designs with a proper conductive mount win there.
Checks before ordering
- Compute the duty cycle from exposure × trigger rate before choosing a light — the worked example above is the whole calculation.
- Read the light's strobe rating: allowed pulse factor and the duty limit it comes with.
- Size the controller channel for peak power and the total budget for worst-case channel overlap.
- Plan the mounting: bare-metal contact over the full back face, thermal compound in the joint, no coating in the path.
- Note the worst ambient: a summer afternoon with the sun on the housing, not the climate average.
- Budget a 30-minute heat run at commissioning: probe the housing center with a thermocouple or IR spot reading and log the number.
The decision for each case
Strobed parts inspection, the majority of area scan cells: strobe at 10-20% duty, add overdrive only within the light's rating, mount metal-to-metal, skip fans. High-speed continuous line scan: a fan-cooled line light on constant-current drive, filters on the service schedule, housing probed at commissioning. Constant-on duty in a warm or sealed cabinet: conduct into the frame, give the cabinet airflow, and dim to the minimum output that passes contrast. Wet, dusty or washdown zones: a sealed natural-convection light on bare metal, fans excluded, conduction doing the work.
Every case ends at the same bench test: run the line at worst-case duty for 30 minutes and probe the housing. Near 60 °C, duty or mounting still has headroom to give; past it, change the design before the light changes on its own.
The lights finder filters the full range by size, color and voltage, the line scan lights and bar lights categories hold the families used here, and the configurator below walks the chain from camera to controller in order.
The configurator matches a camera, lens, light, light controller and cables to each other, step by step, and lists only parts that fit what you already picked.
Already running hot? Send the duty numbers through the contact page and we will size the swap with you. For the surrounding illumination choices — angle, spectrum, diffusion — the lighting topic collects the guides in order.
Questions
How much heat does strobing save compared with constant-on?
Heat follows average electrical power, so the saving equals the duty cycle you end up with. A 108 W light pulsed at 10% duty with a 2x pulse current averages 21.6 W, which is about one fifth of the constant-on load, and its housing settles at roughly one fifth of the constant-on temperature rise. Peak brightness during each pulse is doubled.
How hot is too hot for a light housing?
Use the palm test: if you cannot hold your palm on the housing for five seconds, it is around 55 °C and the setup is running hotter than it should. Bare metal at 60-70 °C burns skin in seconds of contact. Many lights also carry a thermal cut-out that latches in the 60-80 °C housing range, so a barely-touchable housing is close to shutdown.
Does the mounting plate coating really block cooling?
Paint and powder coat conduct at roughly 0.1-0.5 W/m·K against 170-200 W/m·K for the aluminum behind them, so even a thin layer acts as the bottleneck of the whole path. Bolt through the coating to bare metal, put thermal paste in the joint, and keep the contact area as large as the light's mounting face.
Why does my light output drift as it warms up?
Light output falls as the junction warms, white phosphor shifts color, and in voltage-driven lights the forward voltage drops about 2 mV per °C, so current creeps upward and heat follows. Constant-current drive removes the creep. Set your exposure thresholds after the light has been on for its normal shift warm-up, not from a cold first image.
Can a fan-cooled light be used in a washdown or dusty area?
No: fans pull whatever the air carries into their fins and cannot survive spray. In wet, dusty or washdown zones, choose a sealed natural-convection light, mount it metal-to-metal so conduction carries the heat away, and reserve fan-cooled models for dry enclosures where you can reach the filters on a service schedule.





